Thursday, February 13, 2014
How to make a rustic cedar ice chest cooler box!
I started by cutting the legs to 31 inches making sure to keep the angled parts for the feet.
I then set my tablesaw to 3" to cut the leg pieces.
This is what the legs are going to look like. 1 board is 3" and the other is 2 1/2" roughly.
I glued and nailed all the leg pieces together and then clamped them just to play it safe. Pay attention when you glue them so that you have 2 left legs and 2 right legs. I assembled mine so that the 3" pieces were facing forward on the front.
I took the rest of the 4 leg pickets and cu them down to 20" for the front, back, and bottom of the box.
I got 8 pieces out of the 4 boards.
I cut a fresh picket into 5 - 13" boards for the sides.
I cut one of the 13" board in to two 2 1/2" strips and one 20" board into two 2 1/2" strips.
Here are all the pieces cut for the front, back, and sides.
I put a slight chamfer on all the pieces to try and minimize splinters and to add a decorative element to the front, back, and sides.
Here is everything ready for assembly.
The wood is pretty soft but I predrilled and countersunk all the holes just to play it safe.
I also glued all the joints.
I made the front, back and sides out of two 5 1/2" boards and one 2 1/2" board.
I couldnt find any coated screws in a 1" size at Home Depot so I used coarse drywall screws.
Its starting to look like a box!
I glued and screwed two 20" boards to the bottom. These were from the 8 that I cut at the beginning.
I was getting ready to cut some more 2 1/2" strips when I found this staple. It always pays to check your wood before you run it through the tablesaw.
I cut more 2 1/2" strips to make a frame for the top to close in the sides of the foam ice chest.
I made rough marks and slowly inched my way in until the frame fit tightly around the ice chest.
I glued,
nailed,
and stapled the frame together to make it as strong as possible.
Here it is assembled and upside down.
Its a nice tight fit. I also chamfered the inside and outside of the top of the frame.
I used a piece of scrap from the frame to set how far the lip stuck out in the back.
I glued and nailed the top frame and then used some water as a clamp.
I tested the height of the foam lid with a 2 1/2" scrap and it was a good fit.
I took another board and cut it down to size to tightly surround the lid. I also ripped them down to 2 1/2". I glued, nailed, and clamped the pieces over night.
I put the lid in the cooler to get the proper sitting height,
and then put the frame around it.
The easiest way I could think of to attach the lid to the frame was hot glue.
It worked great as long as I didnt touch the tip of the gun to the Styrofoam.
I put a bead of glue all the way around the frame and then attached two 5 1/4" boards and one 2 1/2" board to keep the 3 board look throughout.
More clamping pressure.
I used that same piece of scrap to set my hinges in 2 1/2" from the ends.
I marked the holes and predrilled. The hinges came with their own screws that worked great. I had to go underneath and cut off the ends of the screws because they stuck out a little. I put a dab of hot glue over the cut pieces so hopefully they wont rust to quickly.
Here is the completed ice chest/cooler box!
I might put some handles on the sides but with the foam ice chest the entire thing is very light. I might also put some exterior finish on it but I am interested to see how long the untreated wood lasts so I might not.
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